Bigoli in Salsa
A historic Venetian pasta dish featuring thick, rustic bigoli noodles tossed in a rich, melt-in-your-mouth sauce made from slow-cooked onions and dissolved anchovies.
50 min
Italiana (Veneciana)
2 servings
The story behind
Bigoli in Salsa is Venice's signature lean dish, traditionally eaten on days of fasting and religious devotion, such as Christmas Eve. Historically, bigoli noodles were pressed through a hand-cranked bronze tool called a 'torcio', giving them a rough texture that grabs onto sauces. The soul of this dish is patience: the onions simmer so slowly that they turn into a sweet fondue, allowing the anchovies to fully dissolve into a rich, complex umami flavor profile.
Instructions
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1Heat the extra virgin olive oil in a wide skillet over very low heat.
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2Add the thinly sliced onions along with a splash of water or white wine. Cover with a lid and let them sweat slowly for about 30 minutes. The onions must become completely translucent, meltingly soft, and sweet without developing a dark brown color or burning.
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3Drop the anchovy fillets into the skillet with the softened onions.
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4Using a wooden spoon, gently press and stir the anchovies. Under the gentle heat, they will completely dissolve into the onions, melting into a smooth, savory paste.
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5Meanwhile, boil the bigoli pasta in a large pot of water. Note: use very little salt in the boiling water, as the anchovies will provide plenty of salinity to the finished dish.
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6Drain the pasta one minute before it reaches al dente, saving some pasta water, and transfer the noodles directly into the onion and anchovy sauce.
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7Add a few splashes of the starchy pasta water and toss everything over medium heat for about 60 seconds until the thick bigoli are beautifully glazed.
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8Plate immediately in shallow bowls. Traditional tip: Never top this dish with grated cheese (like Parmigiano), as dairy clashes heavily with the delicate seafood flavor of the anchovies.
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